Day 11 (July 11, 2026): Naadam Games

We got to bed around 3:30AM and were up again by 7/30AM. The plan was to go to Sukhbaatar Square for the processional (more on that in a minute) and then make our way to the National Sports Stadium to try to get scalper tickets for the opening event. However, the rain was like a tap being turned on and off, and the flooding was terrible. We knew we would be soaked if we attempted to get to the square.  It really looked like the opening would be a literal washout.  Amazingly, the rain stopped just after 10AM, and we decided to head out.  Fortunately for the event organizers, that was the end of the rain!  We made it to the National Sports Stadium and, as if divine intervention was at work (I have no doubt it was!), we found someone who sold us two tickets a few minutes before the ceremony began and he had only added a $10 USD markup per ticket to the selling price!  Chills went own our spine as we entered the Stadium.  After all the planning and efforts to get tickets, we were finally here, the rain was over, and we had tickets!  Let the show begin!

But first, let me explain what all this ‘Naadam’ stuff is about, as I think that would help.

The word “naadam” simply means “games” in Mongolian. But the festival that opens every 11 July is far more than a sporting contest — it is the living embodiment of Mongolian nomadic identity, passed down since the 12th century. According to UNESCO, Naadam is “inseparably linked to the nomadic way of life of the Mongols. » The organization inscribed it on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010.

Historically, Naadam draws its roots from the military selection practices of the Changgis Khaan era. The three sports appear in the Secret History of the Mongols (13th century): the most accurate archers, the most enduring riders, the most powerful wrestlers formed the combat elite of the Empire. In 1921, the Revolution transformed this tradition into a secular national holiday. The first official celebration took place in 1922. 

The 2026 Naadam was no ordinary festival. Three historic commemorations converged for the first time: 105 years since the Mongolian Revolution, 820 years since Changis Khaan founded the Mongol Empire, and 2,235 years since the founding of the Xiongnu Empire. Through this celebration, Mongolia celebrated its identity with rarely matched solemnity. Bare-chested wrestlers, archers in embroidered deel robes, child jockeys galloping 30 kilometers across open grassland — Naadam remains one of the most singular sporting and cultural spectacles on Earth.  You can, therefore, understand why we turned ourselves into pretzels, including changing our flight bookings and tour itinerary, to be here for it. 

The ceremony formally began with the procession of the Yisün Tsagaan Tug (Nine White Banners) from Sükhbaatar Square to the National Sports Stadium, although we missed the procession, due to the heavy rains and flooding this morning,  These white horsehair banners, mounted on long poles, have been Mongolia's sacred emblems since Changgis Khaan’s days. They symbolize peace, sovereignty, and the nine founding tribes of the Empire. They are normally kept at the State House and are brought out only for Naadam.

The official ceremony in the 20,000-seat Stadium began promptly at 11AM. The program began with a military parade with riders in period costume, biyelgeedances (a body dance performed from the torso up, originally practiced inside gers), khoomei throat singing (the singer produces two simultaneous tones), morin khuur music (the horse-head fiddle), Buddhist monks in ceremonial robes, and a presidential address. 

The program ran a full two hours and was a mind-spinning array of music, dance, body contortion, and general cultural displays. Various types of farm animals were paraded around the track, and horses were an integral part of it all. The colours were simply dazzling. We have never experienced anything like it.  It was truly a rare life experience. 

Within an hour of the ceremony completion, the Naadam sporting events got underway. In the Stadium, over 500 wrestlers from across Mongolia began competing. Mongolians follow this like an addiction, watching the nationally televised event and cheering on their favourite wrestlers. We observed it for awhile, but it’s difficult to make sense of it all:  numerous pairs of wrestlers lock together all over the Stadium field. They go ten rounds and a winner of that bout is determined by a judge overseeing it. The competition goes for several days, with the winner receiving the equivalent of over a quarter million US dollars.

The archery competition also opened just after the two-hour ceremony. It is held in an archery venue adjacent to the National Sports Stadium. We watched the official kick-off of the event and also took in some of the actual competition, although it is so difficult to follow, as arrows are flying like crazy. 

Although of relative reduced interest, the knuckle-bone competition also opened just after the two-hour ceremony. We watched the very briefly. 

Outside the city, the horse-racing competition opened. Given the difficulty of getting there, we could not take that in. 

We spent the better part of the afternoon taking in the events outlined above.  Hungry, we found a restaurant and had some great Korean food.  Then we walked back to our hotel, got our bags, and took a taxi to the Aurora Hotel, which was our base for the remainder of our time in Ulaanbaatar (“UB” for short.)

The trek from Jeju Island to here was long, and Naadam - as exciting as it was, was an emotionally exhausting event.  We called it an early evening and recalibrated for our first day of Mongolian exploration tomorrow.

Getting to Naadam

We chose this hotel for our first night, as it is within walking distance to the National Stadium, site of the Naadam Games. Breakfast (as sparse as it was) was served at a lounge in a building across the parking lot. The flooding from the previous night’s rain made it difficult to navigate the distance to breakfast and back.

This camel caravan, halfway between our hotel and the National Stadium, became a common sight and reference point during our entire UB visit.

As expected, traffic became an utter nightmare, the nearer we got to the Stadium. This traffic cop had his work cut out for him! We were so glad we were walking to Naadam.

We had heard that Mongolians don their traditional ‘deels’ for Naadam. Everywhere we looked, folks were dressed so nicely. Like this family, walking ahead of us.

Another example of a family in their traditional dress.

Hard to describe our excitement and gratitude for having gotten tickets, after months of trying without success.

This short video compilation provides some highlights of the event and will give a sense of its scale and  colour.  Click to view > https://youtu.be/boz60Me_LRc

And here is a collection of photos that relay some sights of the opening. 

The importance of Changgis Khaan was emphasized in the ceremony.

The flame for the games.

Contortionists.

Throughout the opening, as the spectacle was unfolding on the green, various animals and cultural representations from Mongolia were paraded around the track. Here is a sampling of those.

Our Naadam experience following the opening ceremony

Naadam literally consumes Mongolia.  Most businesses close for ten days!  The country grinds to a halt, families leave the city in droves and head to the country.  Feasts, family time, and relaxation are the name of the game for the full ten-day period.  All those festivities kick off with the Naadam opening ceremony and kick into high gear as the sporting events start up immediately afterwards.  There is a carnival atmosphere in the air everywhere you go!

The Boeing 747 of the President of South Korea was parked near our aircraft last night, so as assumed he was a special guest of the President of Mongolia tor the Naadam opening. Sure enough, he was front and centre among the VIPs at the opening! After the opening, his motorcade passed us and he waved from his open limo window.

We really had no idea where to go or what to take in after the opening ceremony. Somehow, we stumbled on the opening of the archery competition, for which the Presidents of Mongolia and South Korea shot arrows, as did the First Last of South Korea. Their shots were televised nationally.

It was fascinating to watch this group of traditionally clad people near the targets at the other end of the archery field. They sang and chanted good luck as each dignitary shot their arrows.

Next thing we knew, a couple of limos pulled up right next to where we were standing, and the Presidents began a walkabout!

We came all this way with no confirmed Naadam tickets, got in to see the ceremony, and then we got to speak with the President of Mongolia! He asked us where we are from and when we arrived in the country.